Noise didn’t stop Shoreditch though, or Peckham. The real reason you won’t have been here is because there is no reason. Nothing. Estate agents, empty shop fronts, identikit curry houses and a graveyard of outdated restaurant concepts that could never compete with today’s trends, like a broken minidisc player trying to appeal to the Spotify generation. A short walk down to Clapham Junction sings song after song of hopeless ideas, bad chefs, greedy landlords, broken dreams and loans that will take years to repay. I’m never quite sure who’s to blame, but there is no doubt the place is a mess.
And yet every so often, with very little fanfare, a gem appears that stands head and shoulders above the rest. Which knows what it’s doing and does it well. And which deserves better, so much better, than to be written off like the rest of the crowd purely by virtue of its location. Made in South is one such gem. It is not the only pizzeria on the road (I think there are at least ten) but it stands head and shoulders above all the rest. I would go so far as to say it is the best pizza in South West London, leagues ahead of the vastly overrated Franco Manca (which seems to deteriorate in quality with each new outpost) and so far beyond the insipid affront to Italy that goes by the name of Pizza Express it’s almost a slant to compare the two. It is Italian in every sense of the word, a Neapolitan family business where the same friendly faces ask about your children each time you go, where simple and seasonal is the order of the day, and where the crisp-based pizzas hang over the sides of the plates. Tellingly, it is often full of Italians.
Ingredients are key: 00 flour bases with a sweet San Marzano tomato sauce and D.O.P. mozzarella blasted in the authentic Grimaldi oven. Specials change frequently but to be honest the classics are so good you’re just as well off sticking to the Margherita. If you still have room the homemade tiramisu is light, serious and boozy. Really though, I don’t care what you have. I just want you to give up going to other pizzerias in the area and come here instead, every time, so that this place can become the local favourite it deserves to be. Whatever you do, don’t let it disappear. That is all.
Made in South
42 Lavender Hill,
020 3609 0303
Tuesday – Sunday:
6pm to 11pm
Visit Made in South‘s website.
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