Opinion: Liddle, Padella, Pastor and the no reservations conspiracy

I read an article in The Sunday Times a couple of weeks ago. I say article, in that it contained words printed on the pages of a newspaper magazine, but perhaps ‘piece’ would be more appropriate. ‘Article’ confines it within the boundaries of simple journalism. It’s restrictive. ‘Piece’ is far more generous. It allows the…

Review: Bonnie Gull Soho, 22 Bateman Street, W1D 3AN

I love Christmas. Really, I do. It’s another world entirely, the Upside Down, a parallel universe where common earthly notions of what constitutes acceptable and rational behaviour are inverted beyond recognition. Good sense goes out the window. People boil red wine before they drink it and eat turkey of their own volition, a collective lapse in…

Review: Little Pitt, 1 Newburgh Street, London, W1F 7RB

As the new venture and heir to the Pitt Cue moniker sees them stepping things up a gear in size and ambition (see my previous piece on that here), you’d think the last thing the group would want to do is go running back to the tiny, sweaty basement where it all began. At least, not so soon….

Review: Bao Fitzrovia, 31 Windmill Street, W1T 2JN

​Thursday, 12pm, Fitzrovia. Bao – yes, Bao – the Taiwanese place that even the lady from the paper who hates queues tells you to get in line for if you have to, is half-empty. Could it be true? No time to tarry, not even for a nanosecond. This is one of those moments in life you have to seize by…

Review: The Eating Week – On Cafe, Bo Drake, Ben’s Canteen

​It’s tough trying to be a food writer. In this day and age, where anyone with an iPad and working knowledge of a knife and fork has invariably already published their own variation on “the starter/main/dessert was delicious/inedible” about every restaurant that’s ever opened, there’s very little you can say that isn’t either repetitive or…

‘O ver, 44 Southwark Street, London, SE1 1UN

​“’O ver?”, you might say in Italian. “Is this true?”, in English. Healthy, delicious, genuine Neapolitan street food. So goes the ethos behind new opening ‘O ver on Southwark Street, just a stone’s throw away from Borough Market and ideally located for a pre-show pizza if you’re heading to the Menier Chocolate Factory. So what,…

Hoppers – 49 Frith Street, London W1D 4SG

I used to go to Soho all the time. When my wife worked on Lexington Street and we were young and carefree with nothing better to do with our money I would meet her outside her office at 6 on the dot and we would while away the evening hopping from bar to bar until we found…

Made in South, 42 Lavender Hill, London SW11 5RL

If you don’t live on or around Lavender Hill there’s a good chance you’ve never heard of Made In South, let alone eaten there. In fact, there’s a good chance you’ve never even been to Lavender Hill. And why would you? It’s a non-entity, an estuary of the A3 too small to really be considered a main road but…

Aulis at Fera, Claridges Hotel, Brook Street, London W1K 4HR

Mackerel, kohlrabi, buttermilk and Yorkshire forced rhubarb “And then you pretty much just dessicate it.” Linseed Wafer in five easy steps. Just the sort of thing you and your family could make together on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Never mind the fact the first four steps involve grinding the linseed to a flour so fine…